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torsdag 7 november 2013

Jardins d'Écrivains - Wilde

Picture: Oscar Wilde (1854-1900) ca 1882
Photo by: Napoleon Sarony (1821-96)
Wikimedia Commons
Wilde, just as George reviewed latly, is inspired of another 19th century cultperson: Oscar Wilde. Wilde is  another wellcrafted creation from the french nichehouse Jardins d'Écrivains, labled as "pour homme" but I think its at least as unisex as George.

Wilde starts with an unusual, slight powdery,tea-infused, bergamot-citric, tart and in the same time smooth and almost creamy accord. As the fragrance dries down, the tea and some dark, slight balsamic herbal-spicy-green notes, which I think is derived from the carnation appears and adds even more dept to the fragrance. The base is wellblended mossy-green-woody whith the notes in  seamless interaction. When Mr Parfumista tested Wilde he also experienced a oat-like note, a softer version of a note present in Essenza di Zegna from Ermenegildo Zegna. On my skin Wilde is more about bergamot, tea and carantion. Another fragrance that Wilde reminds me of is Agua de Loewe by Loewe. That despite the latter is sharper and dominated by citrus/cardamom and the former is smoother, softer, darker and more elegant. The almost creamy smooth and comfortable texture of Wilde also reminds me of Oscar de la Renta Essential Luxuries Santo Domingo but SD is more spicy. In color and texture I can image Wilde as beeing creamy, moisty, mossy green and Santo Domingo as creamy but in the same time dry, terracotta.

Picture: Wilde by Jardins d'Erivains
Photo: PR Jardins d'Erivains (c)
Wilde is intriguing and in the same time pleasant to wear. The sillage is medium and longevity just as with George very good, about 24h. Perfect for spring and summer, a fragrance that will resist warm tempratures without fading away.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, grape, fig, carnation, tea, oakmoss, vetiver

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

måndag 4 november 2013

Jardins d'Écrivains - George

Picture: George Sand (1804-1876)
 Portrait by Auguste Charpentier (1838),
Wikimedia Commons
Jardins d'Écrivains is French nichehouse which started with scented candles and bathproducts and lately also added perfumes to their line. Jardins d'Écrivains in its style, is inspired of litterature combined with the interest of gardens. The four perfumes in the line whereof two leaning at the masculine side and therefore (and as "skintime" is rare when it comes to me :-) the testing of these fragrances, George and Wilde is delegated to Mr Parfumista. Below I have summerized his impressions of George while Wilde will follow in the next review.

George is of course inspired of the 19th century cultwoman Aurore Dupin married Dudevant aka George Sand who already have some fragrances named after her: Histoires de Parfums 1804 George Sand and Les Parfums Historique (MPG) Eau de Parfum de George Sand. When applying the reaction was "This smells so similar to something else" and after a short while everything went clear: One of the greatest classic tobacco-leather ever, Knize Ten, but George is smoother and gentler in appearance, adapted to the stripped down  fragranceastetic of the general public of today.  There is also a difference in notes: Where Knize Ten intermediates the scent of the clean woolen cloth of an tailor-made suit and tabacco, George intermediates the scent of fresh,dark, green conifer during a warm and windy summerday and tabacco. The green, coniferaccord is of the same spirit as in Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilèe but deeper and darker and without the smoky note of NE.

George is a year arounder and it's fresher character compared to Knize Ten makes it suitable also for more casual events than the more formal Knize. Mr Parfumista likes George very much but comments: "It's sort of a contemporary Knize but not fully accomplished in the way Knize is".George is classified as unisex but leaning towards the masculine side, for those who cares about such petty details. Sillage is medium and longevity for about 24h.

As the forerunner Knize is the original, George just almost reach the highest rating. If there was no Knize forerunner, George would reach the highest score. George is an exellent alternative for those who thinks Knize Ten is too heavy and oldfashioned, which it's not, as it's timeless, but that's of course just my personal opinion :-). George is also a good example of that very good perfumes could be made today also despite all IFRA-restrictions and it is also, just as the whole Jardins d'Écrivains-line, an axample of that good fragrances could also be reasonable priced SEK 725/USD ca 114/EUR ca 83 for 100 ml.

Rating: 4 or 4+ depending on perspective, with or without comparing to Knize Ten

Notes: Neroli, bergamot, heliotrophe, coffee, tobacco, peru balsam, musk, myrrh

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test